The last week in Kenya has been a truly amazing, treasured experience. I have been working amongst the Watha people, a group who traditionally rely on hunting and gathering for their livelihoods and have an astounding abundance of ecological knowledge. They have been scattered across the coastal region and now more heavily rely on agriculture since the remaining forest in this area is now protected. It seems that their main desire, as a community, is to have their name and heritage officially recognized.
Officially, there are 42 tribes in Kenya. The Watha aren't one of them. They have been engaged in a decade long struggle to become known as the 43rd tribe. Here, most people don't identify themselves first as Kenyan as we tend to first identify ourselves first as Canadian. Their first identity belongs with their tribe. Members of the Watha group tell me that it is often difficult for them to get employment or even identity cards because thier name is not officially recognized. They are considered foreigners in their own country.
The Watha have graciously and readily accepted me into their community. My field supervisor, prof Harry Spaling, was able to spend two days with me for initial introductions to some of the community members. We were shown around and introduced by a father and son, both of whom I now consider friends. It's amazing that after two days of sharing laughs and stories of family, culture, and experiences, we all feel like we've known each other for a year rather than just a few short days. I have even been given a Watha name similar in pronunciation to my actual name. Hadiwa Waqa. Hadiwa is a girl's name that means 'hard worker' and Waqa means 'for/from God.' Introducing myself by this name is always returned with grins and seems to be an instant ice breaker.
This week, I will be visiting and interviewing some of the community members about their involvement in the consultations for the Kenya Coastal Development Project, a regional water and land use plan. I am also hoping to have the opportunities to spend some time with a woman working on her small farm and to go on a forest walk with an old man who claims to know everything about the forest. From the couple of fascinating times times that I've talked with him, I believe his claims are true.
I am staying at a guest house run by A Rocha Kenya, a conservation organization that is located basically right on the Indian Ocean a few kilometers south of Watamu. The people and location are fantastic. Yesterday a few of us went for a dip in the sea just as a huge rainstorm came in. As the waves rolled in and the rain pumelled down on us, it just seemed like one of those times where you think it's just good to be alive.
"Hell's Kitchen" - rock formations near Marafa